David Bouley and Jeremy!

You just never know who’s going to walk through our doors at The Meat Market! The Berkshires is a treasure-trove of  serious foodies:  from home-chefs, to food activists and professional restauranteurs. Last week the esteemed David Bouley made his second-stop-in to the shop to talk on camera with Jeremy about his latest project. Mr Bouley is a long time advocate of the now trendy ‘seasonal/regional’ concept, so naturally he was enthusiastic about the offerings of our little shop. We’ll tell you more about this exciting encounter when we are allowed to! Shhhhh…..”its gonna be GREAT”

Open For Business

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On August 29th, a Monday, we decided that enough was enough, it was time to open the doors. It was a blast, the food was gorgeous, and the customers enthusiastic (and understanding as our cash register was being installed as they began to stream into the shop.) We even had a friend stop by to donate his restored 1920′s Hobart slicer to the shop where we will use it for only the most lovely charcuterie. We had some sandwich specials (pulled pork, roasted lamb, and short ribs) and started to fill the case with fresh local meat, available for the first time in Berkshire County. Our shop was and remains only partially filled, with more meats, prepared foods, and finally we are building a carefully edited pantry of things one would need to make a simple dinner, including fresh produce provided by the new Community Cooperative Farms. Here are a few shots from the day.

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Coming Soon!!!

Untitled from Barking Dog Farm on Vimeo.

We have been working hard behind the scenes to bring our project into reality, and we are happy to say WE ARE ALMOST OPEN! Jeremy is putting the finishing touches on the space, and soon we can begin the very fun part where we fill the cases and the walk-in with the most gorgeous locally raised meats we can procure for you. Thank you all so much for your support- you are about to be richly rewarded!

Untitled from Barking Dog Farm on Vimeo.

Holiday Traditions: Beef, Pork and Lamb Rib Roasts

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A wonderful aspect of the holidays, most would agree, is gathering friends and family around the table. We can be culturally, regionally, and religiously defined by the dishes we share on the days between late November and mid January. Jeremy’s education and travels have engendered in him an intense curiosity about and passion for these meals, which are so incredibly specific to the homes they are made in. For the next several weeks we will explore the world for holiday food traditions which we hope will inspire your menu plans and whet your appetite for The Meat Market, which will be ready to provide you with all the ingredients, advice, and preparations you seek during the next holiday season.

The Classic Standing Rib of Beef Roast with au jus

This is a quinesential Christmas dish that my family has served for decades. We always have my grandmother’s Yorkshire Pudding recipe and au jus, the vegetables vary year to year, brussels sprouts being a favorite.

Jeremy’s Prep:

Rub with excellent quality olive oil, minced rosemary and garlic, salt and pepper. Place roast bone side down either on a rack or in the pan with a few sliced onions and cloves of garlic. Jeremy does not advocate adding a lot of vegetables to the pan, because they create steam as they cook, preventing the outside of the meat from caramelizing.  Roast at 350F for 45 minutes, turn heat down 325F and cook until internal temperature is 120F for a rare roast, 135F for medium.  Rest the roast for 20 minutes before slicing.

To make the au jus: deglaze the pan with a rich beef stock (which you can get at The Meat Market) bring to a simmer, adding salt and pepper to taste, and a splash of Calvados, strain and serve with the roast.

My Grandmother’s Yorkshire Pudding: Pour enough drippings from the roasting pan into a 9×12 oven-proof dish so that it is about 1/4 inch deep. Place the dish and drippings in the oven with the roast to heat the dish. Sift together 1 cup flour, 1/2 TSP salt, make a well in the center into which pour 1/2 cup of milk, stir in. Beat 2 eggs until fluffy and whisk them into the batter. Add 1/2 cup of water and beat until very smooth. Make sure the batter is at room temperature, and pour the mixture into the hot baking dish with the pan drippings. Bake 1/2 hour or until golden brown.

The Crown Roast of Pork with chestnut and fruit stuffing

A beautiful and dramatic presentation, which has the wonderful advantage of having a central cavity for stuffing!

Jeremy’s Prep:

You need at least 16 ribs to complete the circle needed to form a full crown, allow about 1 pound per person. You need to ask your butcher to remove the chine and feather bones, which comprise the vertebrae attached to the rib. In addition, the ribs should have all the sinewy connective tissue removed to create the proper elegant look of the dish. Make an olive oil dressing out of rosemary, garlic, parsley, salt and pepper and rub onto roast. With a boning knife make an incision behind the 1st ribs on both ends of the roast. Tie the two ends together by threading butcher’s twine through the holes and fastening them into a crown. Place the roast on a foil covered rack. Stuff the center of the roast. Cook at 375F until it reaches an internal temperature of 155F (about 1 3/4- 2 1/2 hours.) Rest the roast for 20 minutes before carving.

Chestnut and Fruit Stuffing: Your favorite stuffing will work with this roast, but here is one that we suggest. 1 Baguette cubed the size you prefer, 1 cup The Meat Market chicken stock, 1/4 cup of white wine from the bottle you are already drinking, 2 eggs, 4 tbs butter, 1 onion diced, 2 cloves garlic minced, 4 celery stalks diced, 2 crisp apples peeled, cored, diced, 4oz dried apple or pear diced, 24 prunes pitted, 12 roasted chestnuts* peeled and chopped, salt and fresh ground pepper, 20 parsley sprigs chopped, 8 sage leaves chopped.

Place cubed bread on baking sheet in warm oven (250F) to crisp slightly.  Whisk the stock, wine and eggs, set aside. In a large skillet melt butter, add onion, garlic apples, dried fruit, and chestnuts. Cook over medium heat for about 6 minutes, until beginning to soften. Combine all the ingredients: the cooked onion/fruit, the bread from the oven, the stock/wine/egg mixture, and the salt pepper and herbs until well mixed. Place the stuffing in the center of the roast, and proceed as described above.

A fruit chutney would be a really wonderful accompaniment to this dish. We one featuring rhubarb last spring that we will use for this dish on New Years Eve.

Herb Stuffed Roast Leg of Lamb with green peppercorn sauce

This flavorful dish is simple to prepare and yet very elegant, it will fill your kitchen with mouth watering aromas!

Jeremy’s Prep:

You need to ask your butcher for a boneless leg of lamb, not tied.

Filling ingredients: Mix together 1 bunch parsley chopped, 3 mint springs chopped- leaves only, 6 cloves of garlic minced, 1 onion minced, 1/2 cup chopped walnuts, 3/4 cup olive oil, salt and pepper to taste. Open the leg of lamb and make small cuts in leg, being careful not to go to deep, the purpose is to create surfaces in which your filling will collect. Rub the herb mixture to coat all of the surfaces of the inside of the roast, and gently roll the meat to form the roast. Rub the top lightly with olive oil and sprinkle with rosemary. Tie the roast with butcher’s twine and  roast in a 325 degree oven for  about 2-2 1/2 hours (for rare, internal temperature is 125F, for medium 135F.) Rest the meat for 20 minutes before carving, pour off the fat from the roasting pan- use the pan for the peppercorn sauce.

Green peppercorn sauce: 1 3/4 cups beef stock from The Meat Market, 3 tablespoons butter, 1/4 cup chopped shallots, 1 cup whipping cream, 3 tablespoons Cognac or brandy, 2 tablespoons drained green peppercorns in brine

Boil stock in small saucepan until reduced to 3/4 cup, about 7 minutes. Meanwhile, pour off the fat from the roasting pan once the lamb is out of the oven and discard, melt the butter in the roasting pan over medium-high heat, add chopped shallots and sauté 2 minutes. Remove from heat. Add reduced beef stock, 1 cup whipping cream, 3 tablespoons Cognac and green peppercorns. Boil until mixture thickens to sauce consistency, about 6 minutes. Season sauce to taste with pepper.

Check back soon for the next installment!

Slow Money and The Meat Market

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There is a movement afoot that looks at investing in small local businesses as form of activism. Slow Money is an organization, founded by former venture capitalist Woody Tasch, whose mission is to build and test the concept of something he calls “nurture capital” — a healthier and more sustainable alternative to venture capital for funding new businesses. It’s time, he says, to shorten the distance between investors and their investments. It’s also time, he says, to create new economic models that deliver a return but that also put community, soil fertility and the environment into the calculation of the bottom line.

In May 2009 Jeremy was invited by the Slow Money Alliance along with farmers, other entrepreneurs and investors to participate in one of a series of research and exploratory conferences to inform the the Alliance as to the most helpful direction they could take to further their mission. Though we had already determined our fund raising plan for The Meat Market, the Slow Money conference discussions this conversation validated our plan and deepened our commitment to raise money in ways that include and in fact depend on, community involvement.

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We are raising funds in two ways: Founding Supporters and Partners. We will raise $50,000 through smaller investments by Founding Supporters, members in our community (geographical and personal) who, with their investment, are pre-purchasing products and services offered in the shop. Founding Supporters, in addition to raising capital, also act as direct marketers for the business. We know that once people taste the foods The Meat Market will offer, they will be enthusiastic customers: the Founding Supporters are our core customers, and they are heralds of the business as it gets off the ground. We are also seeking individuals as Partners , larger investors in the project, to share our mission of taking the goals of taste, quality, service and respect for the local environment into a brick and mortar reality.

The nature of investing in this way is in alignment with the principals set forth by Slow Money.

Soil fertility, carrying capacity, sense of place, care of the commons, cultural, ecological and economic health and diversity, nonviolence — these are the fundamentals of nurture capital, a new financial sector supporting the emergence of a restorative economy. And these are the fundamentals of the Slow Money Principles.

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We are living in a time when large markets are revealing their problems, the issues of food safety, environmental degradation, and unstable markets make large scale farming in the United States obsolete.  We are fortunate that the tide is turing in favor of small and sustainable, more options are available to consumers who are looking for products that are healthy to eat, promote environmental heath, and support small farms.

A 2006 New York Times story- The Range Gets Crowded for Natural Beef- concluded:

“Organic meat is the fastest-growing segment of the $14 billion organic food business, even thought it represents only 2 percent . Last year, organic meat sales which includes poultry and fish, soared 55 percent, to $256 million from 2004, far faster then the overall organic food industry’s 15 percent annual clip, according to the Organic Trade Association.”

“George Chivari, president of Coleman Natural Foods, one of the largest producers of pasture raised meats, estimates that organic meat will account for as much as 25 percent of its sales by 2010, up from 12 percent this year, and 7.5 percent in 2004.”

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Become a Founding Supporter, your taste buds, your body, and our farmers will thank you!

A Taste For Thanksgiving

Tonight Jeremy and Emily will be on hand  for the screening of American Meat (a documentary film in production which explores the complexities and issues embedded in the highly debated practices of the American meat industry.) We will feature a sample of the sort of products that will be sold at The Meat Market. Jeremy’s hand made fresh Hot Italian Pork Sausages (pork from Holiday Farm) on Barking Dog Farm Rye bread, and Moon In the Pond Farm heritage breed Smoked Turkey Canapes with Cranberry Relish and fresh Mayonnaise on Barking Dog Farm baguettes. Thank you to Dominic Palumbo (Moon in the Pond Farm) for donating the turkey, and Daire Rooney of Brix Resturant for brining the pork and helping with the sausage making and assembly of the canapes.

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getting the smoker ready

Jeremy stoked the fire with cherry from our woods. The weather was very hospitable, a pale blue sky looked benevolently from above as he put the Narragansett turkey in his very home-made smoker at about 1PM, and continued to allow it to smoke until it reached an internal temperature of 160 degrees. When he brought the bird in, the kitchen filled with the rich smokey aroma as we admired its mahogany skin.

My baguettes will be sliced as the base for the turkey meat, and smeared with fresh mayonnaise, and topped with cranberry relish with bosc pears, raisins, a little jalepeno pepper and lime juice.

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pork sausage with fennel and peppers, served with just-baked Rye and mustard.

The documentary project attempts to answer questions regarding sustainability as we humans increase our consciousness about how our food animals are raised: how do we balance the ethical and health implications that arise when we try to grow large amounts of cheap protein, and what is the actual cost of the practices that have evolved to meet that demand ? We believe that the answer comes with a compromise: if we eat less volume but better quality protein we will gain tastier more satisfying meats, improved health, and get to support the earth’s environment and the rural communities from which our food is produced.

We hope to see you tonight so we can share these wonderful tastes, and get you ready for the feast on Thursday!
Happy Thanksgiving!

Snout To Tail

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The reasons for utilizing the whole animal are easy to grasp: Less waste, additional flavors, cost efficiency.


Philosophy: the animal comes with all their parts, so out of respect for the creature, we should find use for as much of it as we can, which historically is exactly what happened. Currently, only about 30-40% of the animal is used as ‘choice’ cuts, and sold at typical supermarket butchers, with the rest of the animal essentially thrown away. This represents a tremendous waste of nutrition, that if reduced will greatly decrease the number of animals needed to meet consumer demand, which has many environmental advantages. (http://www.newscientist.com/article/dn16573-eating-less-meat-could-cut-climate-costs.html)

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Gastronomic experience: flavors and textures exist beyond the ‘prime cuts’ which can stand alone as the star of a dish, or of course shine as supporting characters for the final result (bones being an obvious example.)  There is a treasure trove of food traditions which informs us about how to go about preserving, preparing, and cooking all of an animal’s parts.

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Beef Bones for Stocks, Braises, and Stews.

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Pig’s Feet

Cost considerations: the finest quality animals, which we believe are locally raised and fed a natural diet, are cared for by farmers on relatively small farms where they are able to graze or forage (edified by Sean Stanton of North Plain Farm.) This requires more space and hands-on care than conventional industrial farms utilize, naturally there are additional costs inherent in raising animals in this way. Customers of the Meat Market should not be concerned that these costs will prevent them from eating this high quality product on a regular basis. Knowledge of how to use the less expensive secondary cuts, organ meats, and other often forgotten bits allows the conscious consumer to enjoy these fine animals more often. Jeremy’s culinary background will be your resource for creating delicious meals of the finest quality ingredients every day, so that purchasing local pasture raised meats is not reserved for special occasions.

Sausage Making

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I have been making sausages for years, starting at La Bruschetta in West Stockbridge in the 1990s. At that time customers were looking for novelties, which led to a recipe for seafood sausage with spinach and carrots in it: I served this in a course at the James Beard House in 1997. During the years of Stellar Pasta (1999-2005) I worked with Barbara Delmolino (affectionately called Mrs. D) and Dominic Polumbo (Moon in the Pond Farm) to preserve Mrs. D.’s family recipe, and once a year turned the pasta shop into a sausage workshop.  In 2006 I worked for Stafford Premium Meats, a slaughter house owned and operated by New England Heritage Breeds Conservancy and funded by Cabbage Hill.  I worked on research and development of recipes using pasture raised meats: bresaola, beef jerky, bacon, hot dogs, hams, and many types of fresh and cured sausages. While in Italy (2004 and 2006) as a dellegate of Terra Madre (Slow Food’s biannual meeting)  and visiting sausage shops, I refined my knowledge of the art. The most important thing I discovered was that you don’t need fancy or expensive equipment to make great sausage.

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Here I am making Hot Italian Sausage for our launch party (using a recipe I gleaned from Arnaldo Giovasi in North Adams.) The meat grinder is a Kreft #12, capable of processing 20LBS per hour.

Our shop will produce 1000 pounds of sausage per week, both for sale fresh, and for cured products. We will use a Hobart #20 grinder with 150 pounds per hour capacity to do the job. All the sausages will be hand stuffed.

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Welcome to the new look!

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We are working on getting the website to reflect the project of opening the shop as it unfolds. Things are always happening and we will keep you informed and excited as we ride the wave towards shore. For now, as we are moving towards our financial goals you will see what inspires us and who is helping us move forward. Check in frequently to connect with the news about The Meat Market- you can also follow our progress through facebook- just click on the page on top and you can “fan” the site!

Laughter is brightest where food is best. – A proverb

We agree. We believe, seriously, in promoting the enjoyment of great food. In sharing it, spreading information about it, making it accessible and fun. We believe in locally grown food and the people that produce it. Food that is seasonal and, wherever possible, organically grown. We seek to celebrate our love of food by making the highest quality food products accessible, convenient and affordable to our customers.

From the rich tastes of the charcuterie we make by hand at The Meat Market with heritage pigs raised in Sheffield, to the small batch hard cider made from apples we harvest in New Marlborough and press by hand at Southfield Spirits, and the grass fed and pasture raised cattle, pigs, lambs and poultry we purchase from our dedicated local farmers like Lila Berle and Dominic Palumbo and cut to order for our customers—food truly from the land, food hand grown by sustainable practices, is central to our cultural heritage and to our vision.

These days, with the steady stream of stories in print and on television about “local food” and “sustainable agriculture,” there is no doubt a seismic change is taking place in the way Americans think about what they eat. It’s as if what was old is now new again, but with a heightened appreciation of why it is so important. We are proud to be part of this great tradition.